“Fascinating and complex, the Mangalorean was the best Indian dish I had tried in ages,” writes Houston Chronicle restaurant critic Alison Cook.

I seldom order shrimp in an Indian restaurant. My experience is that they can break your heart. But the shellfish in chef-owner Sheel Joshi’s southern-style curry — one of the outliers on this mostly Northern Indian menu — had been meticulously cooked, so that they emerged big and pearly. The pale reddish sea they swam in was softened with coconut milk, rounded out with cardamom, cinnamon and clove. Then came the crucial sharpening: the snap, crackle and pop of those mustard seeds, chile pods and earthy curry leaves.

Read the rest of the review here.